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Tuesday
February 14, 2012
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  >> Book >> Food/Cooking >> ID #1614593  |   Show DetailsPrinter Friendly Page Tell A Friend
Gobbleblog '09: A 100 Mile Thanksgiving
A Holiday Experiment
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    Halloween has come and gone.  Next up...Thanksgiving.  I've hosted the festivities for family and friends in the past and have always loved the challenge.  This year, however, I intend to up the ante.  My wife and I have lately embraced a movement called "Slow Food".  It encourages being very involved in all aspects of the food you take into your body.  Eating things produced locally, sustainably and responsibly. 
   
    Eating fresh and knowing where your food is coming from is no easy feat, particularly in this age of industrial food production.  The trade off:  Decentralizing a vulnerable national food production system, healthier and more nutritious fare which supports your local economy and enables you to know where your food originated and who is producing it and how, a sustainable approach in food distribution with a smalller carbon footprint...And taste.  Putting the flavor back into the most important thing in everybody's life-- food.

    Anyway, the experiment this year is to provide a feast as enjoyable as in years past using the principles of "slow food".  Everything comprising the meal will have originated within one hundred miles of my front door.  The vegetables- seasonal.  The ingredients- locally (and at the very least, organically) produced, right down to the wine (all Virginia vintage) and, yes, even the turkey (which will be pasture raised or free range).  The guests have been invited and assigned an item (something that each of them shines at).  Their participation in the challenge is entirely optional, but they have been briefed on the prerequisites should they choose to accept it (the ingredients, of course, originating within 100 miles of their homes).  So far, there has been surprising willingness (and surprising skepticism) about the whole affair.  To ensure that even the naysayers enjoy themselves, I will provide a supplemental turkey breast that is the same old, same old.  It actually provides an oppurtunity to taste test the two side by side and compare.

    Well, wish me luck.  I will document the whole endeavour so there is some record about what it took to put this thing together.  How hard was it compared to a regular year?  How much more (or less) expensive?  How did the feast compare taste-wise to any previous? Does eating only things in season rob you of a lot of options? What kind of variety can you get from all of your guests using items locally available to them?  I'm excited about the possbilities.


 
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16.  Epiblogue, Pt. 3: All Good ThingsID #679360 
Posted: 12-9-2009 @ 7:36 pm EST 

Howdy, all. This is it. The last entry in my blog-umentary. Christmas looms and threatens any Thanksgiving nonsense with extinction. I promised a few follow ups, though, and on my honor I will deliver. Don't worry, you can get back to your online shopping spree very soon as I will be brief.

Places in Ireland not to be missed. I have made it over there twice now and would suggest the following: Dublin (of course). I'm not one for big cities generally, but Dublin has a certain vibe that really sets it apart for me. Everywhere we went, I never felt unsafe. The choices for eating are limitless and generally excellent (look for The Bank on College Green, The Bull & Castle, and The Farm. These stood out for me). If you are lucky enough to be around for a football match, it is like the SuperBowl in any of the pubs (complete with crowds singing patriotic songs and swaying their pints above their heads). The live traditional music is hard to beat, and no trip would be complete without spending some time in Temple Bar. It's like Mardis Gras down there almost any night. There is also the Guiness factory, or, as the locals call it, "The Hope Store", and the Jameson factory (home of the finest irish coffee I've ever laid lips to). Yes, there is a theme appearing, I realize.

Cork, the ring of Kerry, Cliffs of Mohr, the Dingle Peninsula all are exceptional. If you can beat me to it, I would suggest checking out Belfast (yes, Northern Ireland) and the Devil's Causeway on your way up. I have not done either as of yet, but it will be my major focus when at last I go back again.

Anyway, I promised I would be brief. As the entry title suggests, all good things, they must come to an end. I should take the oppurtunity to thank all of you who tuned in regularly for your interest in this project. Those of you who popped by only once or twice, I thank you also. The Gobbleblog '09 ends tonight, but I am toying with the idea of starting another blog (less seasonally restricted). The new one will be dedicated to my research into "Slow Food". I imagine it will be more of a weekly thing. This link will take you there when it is up and running:


ID: 1625470   (Rated: E)
Gardens of Eatin' 
A few quick glimpses into "slow food"
by Kyle Curcio












 

15.  Epiblogue, Pt. 2: KarmaID #678783 
Posted: 12-5-2009 @ 9:07 am EST 


Another nod to the Turkey Lady and her glorious and dashingly handsome husband (I promised you, Turkey Guy, that I would get you in here). It is worth describing the experience of picking up my Thanksgiving tom. Seeing how christmas is decidedly elbowing all things Thanksgiving to the realm of history, I will try to keep it brief.

I showed up well after dark on the Tuesday that I was scheduled for pick up, a cast-resin pig under my arm. It was a gift for the noble farmers who had made my dream of a more problematic Thanksgiving a reality. Nobody was around--just Hoover, who took a second to grunt and stretch out on his bed when I pulled up, and a single feral chicken who, I can only guess, suffered from some measure of insomnia (or delusion). I knocked on the door. Nothing. I knocked again. Still nothing, so I started walking around to the side and back of the house. If someone had told me "one day you'll be sneaking around a farm after dark with a plastic pig under your arm and a crazy chicken in tow" I would have certainly looked at them crossways. But this is my life.

Turkey Guy came out onto the porch and called me back. He led me through a series of cavernous (and sparsely furnished) rooms (the farmhouse was 100 years old or more, and existed as a perennial improvement project) to the kitchen. They were about to sit down to dinner. Turkey Lady was there, now Turkey Guy and myself. Also there, was Tony. Tony was Turkey/Pig Lady/Guy's friend and diehard helper in their endevour. He was a colorful fellow, to say the least. They invited me to join them. So we sat, the four of us, a tray of bruschetta, four turkey carcasses wrapped in plastic bags (one would be mine), and a couple bottles of wine. This was a cast of characters for whom there would be no lull in conversation, no topic to remain untouched. Good times. I find it is often the case that the best of life's experiences are the ones least planned.

So now it was getting on 9PM. It had been two hours, just like that. I torturously flip-flopped over which turkey to take with me as we wrapped things up. Everybody had to work the next day, and I had the additional task of cleaning up a s*** covered dog back at the house (another story).

Here is where I must make my confession. I had planned to be in and out upon picking up the bird so I had left the car running. So much for "greening" my life. Karma will surely be in to kick my ass for that, if Turkey Guy doesn't want to do it first. He had seemed like something was eating him at times, but was gracious enough to hold his tongue (mostly). Sorry, world. Sorry, Scott. Hopefully, I can restore the balance when I pick up my chickens from you. In the immortal words of the Terminator, "I'll be back".



 


14.  Epiblogue, Pt. 1: RecipesID #678482 
Posted: 12-2-2009 @ 11:42 pm EST 


Sorry, folks, for the long hiatus. Christmas is in the air and my work is going to reflect the craziness of the season. I promised a few follow-ups, and, by gummy, this is the first.

I figured I could start with the recipes that I promised to reveal (the two contenders for the star of the show). Both were pulled from the pages of Food & Wine magazine (Nov. 09). The first preparation was with lemon and chives and required no brine. It follows:

1/4 cup plus 2 tbsps snipped chives
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon, plus 1 lemon, thinly sliced
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper
One 18 lb turkey
1 carrot & 1 onion, cut into 1-inch pieces


Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor (or a bowl), combine 1/4 cup chives, lemon zest and juice, 1 tbsp kosher salt and a tsp of pepper.

Beginning at the neck, gently separate the turkey skin from breast and legs using your fingers. Season the turkey cavity w/ salt. Rub half the lemon-chive butter under the skin, spreading it over the breast and thighs.

Set the turkey on a rack in a large roasting pan and scatter the carrot, onion and lemon slices in the pan. Add 1 1/2 cups water. Rub remaining lemon-chive butter over the outside of the bird. Roast on the bottom rack of the oven for 3 1/2- 4 hrs, adding 1 1/2 cups water to the roasting pan and tenting the turkey w/ foil halfway through. The turkey is done when the internal temperature registers 170. Uncover the turkey and transfer to carving board; let rest 30 mins. before carving.


The recipe that I actually used for the main event follows:

2 tbsps fennel seeds
2 tbsps mustard seeds
2 tbsps coriander seeds
6 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
1 cup sugar
8 quarts cold water
One 18 lb turkey
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
3 tbsps chopped flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp chopped sage
1 tbsp chopped thyme
freshly ground pepper
2 cups low soium chicken or turkey stock


In a large saucepan, combine the fennel, mustard and coriander seeds with the bay leaves, salt, sugar and 1 quart of the water. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Transfer the mixture to a very large bowl or pot and add the remaining 7 quarts of cold water. add the turkey, breast side down. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hrs or overnight.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Drain and rinse the turkey and pat dry; discard the brine. same as above, loosen skin of the bird.

In a medium bowl, combine the two sticks of butter with the parsley, sage and thyme and season with pepper. Spread the butter mixture all over and under the skin of the turkey and set it on a rack in a roasting pan. Add 2 cups of the stock to the pan and roast for 30 mins. Lower the oven temp to 325 and roast the turkey for about 2 1/2 hrs longer, basting occasionally; the turkey is done when the internal temp registers 170. Transfer the bird to a cutting board and let it rest for 30 mins before carving.

I'll leave it at that for now. It is getting late. I'll get into more nitty gritty soon. Bon appetite!






 

13.  AftermathID #677892 
Posted: 11-28-2009 @ 10:14 am EST 


So this is what success looks like. My thought looking over the kitchen and the dining room as my last guests left and those who were staying the night headed upstairs. Piles of dishes and half empty cups occupied every square inch of counter space. Crumbs and dessert plates crowded what had been the centerpiece (now the off-center piece) and the tablecloth Regina had so lovingly ironed in place a few hours before now looked like a muppet after the running of the bulls. Empty bottles of wine and a devastated cheese plate moaned for attention from the kitchen bar area as the candles that adorned that area sighed their last breaths. There was food to put away, but not so much as to feed an army. There had been some waffling on whether or not there would be enough for as many folks as we had, so, if I failed to mention it before, I had a second roast turkey (brined and prepared exactly as the main attraction), for supplementing the crockpot breast. I had done it just before the pasture raised bird, and it allowed me to practice carving before the crowds got here. That stack of meat was set aside for reheating if the need should arise.

And now the main event. Did the experiment pan out, you ask? Absolutely. Were my guests crowding around to see the turkey (staged beautifully, I might add, on an enormous serving platter atop fresh field greens)? Not exactly. Did they question me extensively about what I had done? Where had I gotten this or that? What were some of the hang ups in preparing a meal along these lines? Nah. Did they all try their best to prepare their contributions within the parameters of my challenge? Nope.

Still, I consider the whole endeavor a success. My goal was not to foist some new fangled, gastronomic, fire and brimstone approach to nutrition on my guests, or to demonstrate that they were an unwitting participant in an industrial food system which is utterly unsustainable. My goal was to have a good time with those that were close to me, have them enjoy a tasty meal and know that I went to great lengths to make that meal as wholesome and as ecologically friendly as I could manage. To bring some willing awareness to the existence of the slow food movement. For the folks who were interested in taste testing the different birds side by side, I happily explained which was which. Those who had questions about all of this, I eagerly engaged. I talked about Christmas. I talked about the dog, and my neices, about how everybody had been since last I saw them...It was a Thanksgiving as nice as any previous years, which, you'll recall, was another of my goals.

Amen.







I will be posting a few supplemental entries for those of you who are itching for details about these goings on and to expand on some of the stuff I didn't have time to get into previously. I truly appreciate all of the interest up to this point. Happy holidays and thank you for your attention.
 


12.  Thanksgiving Already?ID #677701 
Posted: 11-26-2009 @ 7:50 am EST 


Foggy this morning. Very foggy, like my mind. Was up into the wee hours doing everything possible as far as prepping things for today (including hanging those freaking curtains which showed up on my doorstep in the PM), cutting up the cheeses for the cheeseboard, making the soup and the stuffing, precleaning the dining room...Regina made a pie (sweet potato pie with a touch of whiskey) which turned out beautifully. She spent a lot of time cutting little leaves out of dough to dress up the top. Maybe I can manage a picture of it.

I sucessfully parried my brother who was coming from Philadelphia with my neice. He called from the road to tell me he would be at the house around 2AM. I hadn't thought I'd see anyone until early this afternoon. Before I had really thought it over, I told him the code to the lock box on the front door and started to wash the sheets for the guest room. Visions of doing what I had to do this morning with the added distraction of early arrivals had me on the phone a few minutes later suggesting maybe he could crash at the folks' house instead. It was an hour closer for him, my parents would certainly love to get in the extra time, and if he decided to make something at the last minute (as he is wont to do), we wouldn't all be under each other's feet. This aspect was the most important as Regina comes from a long line of women who will throw you out of their kitchens when they are cooking.

I really need to get on with this morning. Maybe I will do a few shorter entries as I can throughout the day. If it doesn't happen that way, I will most certainly have some lengthy ones for following up. Thanksgiving is now on us like a monkey on a cupcake. I hope today finds you well.



 


11.  The Home StretchID #677261 
Posted: 11-22-2009 @ 10:31 pm EST 


Yesterday, I made it out to the Freddyburg farmer's market. I asked a guy where his grapes were from. "California," He said. Oh yeah, then I recognized him. It was California Asparagus guy. "Thanks," I said, and walked next door to get my stuff. Hopefully enough people will do that and he will try to make a switch. It just doesn't feel honest to me somehow.

The lady next door had all the local stuff I could hope for. That, and when she heard I was looking to make a sweet potato pie, she jotted down a recipe of her own for me to try (the rhubarb pie idea went the way of the dinosaur when I read that they weren't in season). Artisan Bread Lady was there and I selected a nice kalamata olive sourdough bread to use in my stuffing. Then everybody started wrapping things up. We hadn't gotten there much earlier than we had the last time.

Tonight was my weekly pilgrimage to Wegman's for the rest of the stuff that I needed. The list was still quite long, but I managed to get everything at least organic...the butter, the whipping cream, the nuts for the obligatory cheese plate, even the fennel seeds for my turkey, among other things. It comes at a price, though. We dropped almost $200 for the effort.

The rest of the week will consist of prepping for the big day; making what can be made ahead of time, testing out and tweaking my brine, some minor decorating for the occasion (I'm still waiting on the window treatments), and trying to keep the house in order all the while. Oh, and I found out that the in-laws are heading out of town the Sunday after Thanksgiving with Regina's aunt and uncle and that they will be staying here the night before they leave. They are bringing all of the dogs so that they can leave them with us for the week. Twelve people to feed on Turkey Day, and two days later, ten more mouths to feed (if you include the four animals) and put up. Wow. When it rains, it pours.




 


10.  The Turkey FarmID #677041 
Posted: 11-20-2009 @ 7:28 pm EST 


I just got back from the turkey farm. Beautiful place high on a hill. There's a great view of the not so distant mountains and a pond across the way. Met Turkey Lady for the first time in person and her husband as well (he popped in and out as he tended the animals). I got the tour of the place and met the turkeys, one of which is mine. They are curious creatures, turkeys. They all came running as we approached their pen, the males puffing up to thwart any attempt I might have made to have my way with their hens. There were the Black Spanish turkeys, the Bourbon reds, a handful of the Broad Breasted Whites...An interesting observation about them- when they gobble, they gobble in unison. There would be a few moments of silence and then a great collective burst of gobbling which died off as quickly as it had begun.

I sort of met Trixie. It was Trixie's job to keep the turkeys safe. A big, puffy white dog, she seemed to take her job very seriously. Too seriously at times, according to Turkey Lady. She was now bonded with the flock and anything that wasn't a turkey (specifically the many chickens that wandered around the property) was strictly forbidden from approaching. Oh, I mustn't forget my secondary guide, Gil, a boxer that attatched himself to the tour early on and occasionally would split off from our entourage to chase the livestock. There was Hoover, a thirteen year old lab who, back in the day, could hump things with the best of them. Now he preferred to lay around on the enormous front porch and pant. I haven't even touched on the pigs. Rhoda, Daisy, Oliver, Tu, and about thirty others that Turkey Lady recognized and could name from a good distance.

I got a look at the killing station which consisted of a few metal cones screwed to a board, some wire for hanging the newly dispatched birds while they bled out, a scalding tank that looked like it could have been a turkey fryer at one point, a couple of propane tanks nearby. This was for loosening feathers prior to the plucking machine, which rounded out the processing aspect. Offal from the butchering process is used to fertilize the garden come spring.

So there we were, standing in the feathers left from the last batch of fowl to give up the ghost, talking about the way things are and the way things should be, how we got to where we are and where we are going from here. Gil was eating feathers and puking up the pig water that he drank a few minutes before. Hoover was tired of trying to bang my dog by now and had settled back into his spot on the porch. The chickens all headed to the coop to roost until morning, and those turkeys, those turkeys would gobble like a choir as we wrapped things up. Another day on the turkey/pig farm came to a close as the sun set behind those mountains. I'll be back on Tuesday evening to collect my hen, puffed up toms or no.

Just six days before Thanksgiving. Geez.




 


9.  Down to the WireID #676940 
Posted: 11-19-2009 @ 8:38 pm EST 


I may not be able to kill my own turkey after all. They start doing the birds on Sunday, and I'm working that day. Tomorrow I may end up visiting the farm, however. I'll finally put a face to the turkey/pig lady and the operation responsible for the biggest part of my holiday feast. So much to do. Thanksgiving is a mere six days away.

I tried the first of my two gobbler recipes the other night. I don't think that it was the winner. Anytime lemon is a large part of the turkey equation, it seems to be a little much. Hopefully my remaining recipe, being more traditional, will do the trick. By the by, a friend of mine suggested that I post the recipes I'm trying in the blog. I thought it was a good idea. They will be included in my epi-blogue (my afterword for the gobbleblog). It'll be available for the diehards.

This coming weekend is going to be head-spinning. Gathering all of the ingredients I'll need, picking up the turkey, testing my final contender for how it is prepared, straightening up the house, working up a schedule for timing the big to-do, gathering up the ingredients I had forgotten, setting up the dining room (we picked up the centerpiece and a runner whilst in Ireland)...There's also some minor asthetics to tend to while I'm on about the dining room (we recently redid it for this occasion), a large part of which has to do with the window treatments that are on order. Not to mention keeping this blog up to date. Twelve people may as well be fifty when you're down to the wire.

I expect it will be loads of fun, though, and quite satisfying if all ends well. Either way, it will be a story worth telling. Check back.



 


8.  Back to the GrindID #676450 
Posted: 11-16-2009 @ 7:52 pm EST 


Ah, back to work. Work at work and work at home. I've had a cornish hen waiting in the fridge as a tester for days. Tonight, the brine. Tomorrow, the dine, and then right back to another hen to whittle down my two bird recipes to the one that I will use for the big day. I also need to try and plan to make it out to the turkey farm this weekend to help with some killin', and get to the farmer's market to check it out full glory. Thanksgiving is only ten days away!

For those of you looking for details from that "Fresh" screening, don't worry. I haven't forgotten. I just want to keep my head in the game for the marathon of kitchen activity that's coming. I'll also make a few recommendations for places you don't want to miss when in Ireland. This kind of thing I will include in its own blog a little later.

I gotta say, I was skeptical about this whole 'blog' business. I only started it to keep my thoughts together for an article I need to write. "What the hell am I gonna write about" & "Who will care?" I have found that there is a constant supply of stuff to include, and better (or worse) yet, it keeps on growing. I've also been honored by a fair amount of interest from all of you who have been checking in. It is very encouraging and very appreciated.

Enough sappiness, now. Time is ticking. There is much to do.



 


7.  Good bye, Emerald IsleID #676184 
Posted: 11-14-2009 @ 6:44 pm EST 


If you ever visit the Emerald Isle, you'll probably want to include a trip to Cork in your plans. Very cool town. It's alot like Dublin, only on a much smaller scale. We ended up with just six hours to spend in the city (it is a three hour train ride from the Capitol) so we spent the day looking around city center. If shopping is your bag, then book yourself a few days here. The shopping district goes on and on (in seemingly typical Irish fashion). When you turn down one street or alley, there is always another one. And another, and another...But my subject here is food.

I'm still not sure how Cork ended up the reputed epicurean capital of Ireland (other than the fact that there is a large cooking school there), but it could hold its own as far as some of the restaurants you'll find there. They're like the shops- Too many to count. If there's one, there's five hundred more right around the corner. More notably still, there's what is known as "The English Market". If ever there were a juggernaut of a farmer's market, this is it. An old church restored as an all season bazaar, this must be the godfather of open air produce markets. If meat is your thing, there are countless butchers on hand selling everything from ribeyes to sirloins, tounges and tripe...I even found gator filets, osritch and emu meat, quail, pheasant, duck, deer, you name it. There were vendors selling locally grown and roasted coffee, wines and spirits. Not to mention the upstairs in the place has been converted into a cafe' that draws almost every ingredient on the menu from right downstairs.

We weren't hungry yet, so we promised ourselves that we would come back when we were. Didn't happen. We had gotten so turned around ducking hither and yon between this alley and that street, poking into this store only to tumble out the back into yet another thoroughfare crammed to the hilt with things to see, that we decided to call on a place called "Amicus". Though we had stumbled across it by chance, it was one that one of our hostesses back in Dublin had suggested we go to. Very good, but not the best (Regina and I make a whole wheat naan bread pizza that, quite frankly, put the one she ordered to shame).

Anyway, too much minutiae. This entry is like looking over somebody else's vacation pictures and trying to feign interest. Suffice it to say that my stay here in Ireland was fantastic, and having a new way to enjoy this beautiful country (through my newly appreciative culinary eyes) added just that much more depth to the experience. Early tomorrow morning we will leave (with a second chance to have a look at Paris) and it will be back to the grindstone come Monday. Back to the states and back to my project with a renewed purpose and alot of catching up to do.



 



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