Sandy Supposes....

Mauritania Meanderings

Day 24 NOUAKCHOTT, MAURITANIA

         

         

                   

Okay, now I find myself wandering on the west coast of Africa in and around Nouakchott, Mauritania a deep water Atlantic port on the Sahara Desert. Talk about a contrast, an ocean and a desert. This is the place of the winds. I for one would not appreciate a sandstorm. I notice the heat as I explore.

         I embark upon a private tour with my fellow bloggers and we are escorted to the site of a humongous masque. Not being of the Muslim persuasion I am not permitted to enter, so the interior remains a mystery. This structure is probably visible from the air and prominent on a satellite image.

         I happily meander and browse at the Galerie Zeinart where my eyes feast upon all manner of creative endeavours from local artists and artisans. There's a wealth of paintings, carvings, pottery, jewellery and clothing. Everything blazes with vibrant colour. It emanates joy. How big is my virtual souvenir bag? There are no customs worries, right?

          Well, today I visited a site that is definitely a first for me, The Bay of Nouadhibou Ship Graveyard. Yes, immense, towering hulks of rusting, listing and creaking ships have been abandoned here to die. Instead of being stripped in a legal and environmentally responsible manner, these sea-faring vessels are left to decay. Apparently, their owners find this cheaper and far more expedient than dismantling. It's a shame. Rusting metal is alien to sparkling green water and crashing waves. This is a beauty and the beast sight.

         Despite man's blatant disregard for the environment, the fish and marine life have embraced these rotting hulks as new habitats. Locals have also spawned a salvage industry. Small blessings...

         Hmm, I never anticipated rough-stone libraries in the Sahara Desert either, what a surprise. In Chinguetti, once a thriving trading post, people accumulated ancient manuscripts and saved them. Many are fragile parchment rolled within bamboo tubes. Those that do infrequently handle them wear gloves and precede cautiously. The dry desert air has aided in their preservation, but sand is also a corrosive. Many date back to medieval times and are Quranic documents. Obviously, a borrower's program does not exist. I cannot imagine a book so aged and fragile it might disintegrate in my hands.

         Everyone relaxed at Al Fantasia Restaurant and shook sand from their clothing. We were extremely parched and after chugging copious amounts of refreshing water, we indulged in pots of tea. Locals had promised us a mint variety and it proved tasty as advertised. I've never dined at an establishment that provided soft, comfy pillows such as those here. I might have been too comfortable. If they were proffered to induce relaxation, they succeeded!

         Oh, the smells that wafted past my nose and teased saliva from my agape mouth...The chicken tagine melted in my mouth with a spicy tang. I am now a fan of Moroccan cooking. Alas, this stellar eating establishment did not offer carry-out service forcing me to waddle away under my own power.