ON THE WRITE PATH: travel journal for Around-the-World in 2015, 16, 18.
|"Money!" she shouted pointing to where I had dropped 100 NT$ on the floor. We laughed and then she helped me mark on a piece of paper what I pointed at behind the glass. I pay 115 NT$. Now two plates, one bowl and an offer of free broth. I respond with a gesture, "A little". Then two bowls move on their own over the hard smooth surface of the table, a mystery to me. Hot broth, warm turkey on rice, cold slices of pork liver (zhu gan), shredded ginger and a shrimp (xia) roll sliced in pieces. All served with a smile. And then a small bowl of sliced vegetable (who-knows-what) with a spicy sauce ... too hot ... the young man goes to find something milder. I say do xia (多謝) as I leave. More laughter.
I hunt down some masks, buy some snacks. On the way back, I walk past the restaurant where the turkey lady squats by the curb scrubbing out a steel pot. I motion that it's lots of work. More laughter.
Chiayi, Taiwan, 7.february.2020.