Mason-Dixon Recipes

Burgoo (Beef Stew)

I'm Irish, so I'm used to odd stews. I can take it. Just throw a lot of carrots and onions in there and I'll call it dinner.

         — Liam Neeson

When I was working in the Southern Hill Country of Ohio, I was invited to an outdoor cookout which highlighted a beef stew called burgoo. That area is just a spit across the Ohio River from Kentucky (if you can spit far), so the influences of both areas seep across the river. That's what happened with Burgoo, which is Kentucky-based stew that is now popular not only in Kentucky and Ohio, but Indiana, Illinois, and West Virginia as well.

As I recall, it was a good stew, hearty and robust, but in my mind it was still just a stew. That is, until I found out that a French chef, named Gustafve Jaubert, served the stew to Confederate General John Hunt Morgan during the Civil War. Being a Civil War enthusiast, and having enjoyed reading about the exploits of the flamboyant calvary commander, the stew made it into my recipe box, albeit through the back door.

The origins of the stew are unknown, though it's mentioned twice in the 1700s (Observ. Hudsons Bay, 1743; Chamber's Cycl. Suppl., 1753). Traditionally, burgoo used any meats (venison, rabbit, squirrel, 'possum, raccoon, game birds) and vegetables (corn, okra, tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, potato) that were available. Since burgoo is slow-cooked, the thickening agent is the starch from the vegetables.

As for the French chef Jaubert, he was hired as the company cook by the Old Fired Copper Distillery at Frankfort KY, and from him the fame of burgoo spread. That distillery is now the Buffalo Trace Distillery. The first distillery on the site was constructed in 1812 by Harrison Blanton, who had a favorite Burgoo recipe of his own that contained 26 ingredients of meat and vegetables.

Several cities today, particularly throughout Illinois, claim to be the home of the world's best burgoo or burgoo capitals of the world. Burgoo festivals are common and burgoo is often used in community pride events or for school fundraisers. In fact, Burgoo is considered an iconic dish at the Kentucky Derby.

The problem with Burgoo is that two of its three primary characteristics are hard to mimic:

1. It's made with either mutton or wild game meats; slow-cooked over a hickory fire before going into the stew.
2. It's intended to be cooked in large quantities in big outdoor pots.
3. It's made thick enough to cause a spoon to stand straight up.

Mutton? Hard to find. Rabbit, venison, and squirrel? Works only if you're a hunter. For non-hunting folks, other meats can be used if you don't mind being sneered at. Fortunately, I don't. Proper meats now can include pork, chicken, or beef—individually or altogether. Burgoo is sometimes considered an "empty the fridge" type of meal.

Large, outdoor pots? Unless you're hosting an event, this isn't going to work for most modern cooks. Still, there's no reason it can't be accommodated for indoor use. It can be slow-cooked in a crock pot, or for a quicker stew, a thickening agent can be added, such as cornmeal, potato starch, corn starch, or flour.

And there's no reason you can't cut down 26 ingredients to a reasonable amount. In fact, it's imperative that you do. Too many people over-complicate or over-season their dishes. Burgoo is a dish easily personalized, and in fact, often is. It's said there are no two burgoo dishes alike. So, make it your own.

Thickness? We can nail that.

INGREDIENTS

1-2 lb stew meat or beef shank (bone-in) or whatever
¹/₂ cup all-purpose flour
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 cups (32 oz) beef stock
4 cups water
2 tbsp Worchestershire sauce
1 14¹/₂-oz can diced tomatoes
2 15-oz cans whole new potatoes, diced
1 15-oz can each your choice vegetables (carrots, okra, lima beans, onion, etc.)
2 tsp salt
1 tsp paprika
¹/₂ tsp garlic powder
¹/₂ tsp black pepper
¹/₄ tsp sage (optional)*

*Sage is an optional spice. I like to use it because it has an earthy, slightly peppery and minty taste. It works well in heavier dishes with rich ingredients like burgoo that can hold their own against it's bold flavor. That said, it's not for everyone.

DIRECTIONS

Coat stew meat with flour and sugar (to help in browning). In a large pot, heat vegetable oil. Add flour-coated stew meat (with remainder of flour) and brown, adding a little beef stock as needed to keep from burning.

When fully browned, add remainder of beef stock and then add remaining ingredients. Set heat on low, cover, and simmer until vegetables are soft and tender. Add additional flour to thicken as needed.

Burgoo is typically made by combining the ingredients in a specific order. Meats go in first, followed b vegetables, and then the thickening agents. Some like it hot, so chili powder or hot sauce can be added.

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