iguanamountain blog

Food shopping in Tehran

Historically, traditionally and currently, Iranians are retail merchants, however some changes are taking place.

Every neighborhood has a couple food stores. Meat is separate, and usually different shops for chicken or beef-sheep. Every neighborhood has a bread baker. Fresh-baked, unleavened bread is pretty standard for meals. The smell from those shops is heavenly. There is always a crowd at the door several times a day waiting for the hot bread the moment it comes from the ovens. Fruit and vegetable shops are another kind of shop displaying a wide variety of fresh produce.

Then there is a different kind of bakery that makes sweets, muffins and rolls, cakes and cream puffs and cream rolls. Also elaborate French pastries. These are more expensive and most often are boxed and presented to the host when visiting. And to the benefit of the shop keepers, the tradition is to always present guests with a large bowl of fresh fruit and a selection of sweet pastries...always. Of course this is served with tea. My friends know I like coffee, so I get the Nescafe and a cup of hot water.

The changes are the new introduction of super stores. I suspect developed by men who have visited the super Walmarts or the big Carefours in France.  However these stores are bigger! They have top-brand shops in an outer perimeter mall including banks, coffee-espresso bistro, snack shops, kid's games, and a food mall with great variety and space for many hundreds of diners.

The big store inside the security-scanners has EVERYTHING except the auto and tire section. Acres of housewares, hardware, sport, electronics, clothing, carpets, etc., then on to the food with every kind of fruit & vegetable, a full bakery, imported oils, vinegar, spices, cheeses, dairy, all the frozen stuff, local and imported. you get to pick out and bag your own produce and a central counter where these amazing women weigh, label and seal each bag in seconds.

Checkout lines by the dozens. The check out clerks are very fast and polite. The stores are clean, efficient and constantly restocking as there are thousands of customers. (And they do run their shopping carts similar to how they drive.)

The for the thousands of shoppers, there are two levels of indoor parking, also fast and efficient. There are escalator-ramps that lock the wheels of your heavily laden shopping cart, so easy to get to the car. The parking is a big deal, because in the rest of the city, where ever you go, parking is the biggest problem. Truly there are more cars than spaces.

From the size of the crowds, this idea is extremely popular and I fear it won't be long before the small, one-item shops will begin to feel the pinch. Another five or so of these monster shopping centers are planned or already under construction. Just like the rest of the world...some people have a lot of money.

Of course here, the big deal is Persian New Year, not Christmas. The birth of Jesus is marked and celebrated and there are some decorations and a few trees. The churches do it proper with lots of events and special celebrations. The New Year (Noruz) is non-religious with lights everywhere, gifts, family gatherings Everyone comes home for Noruz. (That's in March) And it's becoming more commercial as well. (sound familiar?)

With all that, you could eat yourself to death!
Later, >>>iggy

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