Sandy Supposes....

Sani Pass or Sanity Pass

Day 18 Lesotho, South Africa

         

         Whew! Is it me, or was that a looong flight from Tanzania? I recall a blur of green.

         Newly released from a plane, I hopped into a 4x4 vehicle to ascend the Sani Pass. OMG! This should be dubbed the Sanity Pass. My fellow travellers and I were jostled about on the gravel / dirt single lane track. I'm sure we could have climbed quicker on foot, but it is rough and I imagine dangerous for sprained ankles at least. The vehicle climb proceeded at a sedate upward pace. We sloshed through a few shallow streams and kicked up clods of mud. I heard the engine whine a bit, or was that us?

         This "road" was once a treacherous animal track and I believe it hasn't improved much. It is steep and rough with plenty of hairpin turns and switchbacks to traverse. Staring out the window, I gasped at the sheer drops. Not one crash barrier existed. Did I mention the heavy fog that made a clear view impossible? Here and there, I caught glimpses of green and white. Yep, I spied snow.

         The driver did not seem at all nervous, no tics, or perspiration, or muttered prayers. He kept both hands lightly gripping the steering wheel. He did not engage in idle chitchat. He concentrated on the steep, rugged terrain. We bounced over some rather large rocks that did not impede our progress.Nobody called out. We did not wish to startle our chauffeur. He had our welfare in his hands.

         At long last I could release my bated breath and rejoice at our arrival in Lesotho, Kingdom of the Sky, the highest country in the world. The fog dissipated enough to showcase our mountainous route. Patches of azure sky welcomed me. I smiled at the quick fluttering of an orange breasted bird. I learned its name, the drakensburg rockjumper. Of course, it jumps rocks. They are everywhere.

         I welcomed an opportunity to stretch my cramped legs in a hike to the
Thabo Bosiu National Monument. Oh, the panoramic views were breathtaking. This summit was once a natural fortress. I walked amongst a replica village of huts.

         A few locals wore a unique woven straw hat, the mokorotlo. It is quite the sun hat. Women strolled about in beautiful, bright coloured swatches of material. On their heads, they wore equally bright headdresses, or tied scarves. Many people were draped in gorgeous woven woollen tribal blankets. I was told that these blankets are significant to the rites /passages of life. Some represent a new bride, or a young man's initiation into manhood. Some are given as gifts after the birth of a child. The ruling family wears their own custom pattern. No matter,I impulsively purchased a beautiful turquoise blanket. Perhaps I too will wear it as a poncho.

         The hotel, Bird Haven, is composed of a group of thatched huts, or cottages. These huts are known as rondavels. The lush garden is a serene retreat. I inhale the fresh mountain air and think, I am on top of the world.