My musings, my rambles and I welcome you.
|Have you ever been surfing? Describe the experience
I’ve never been surfing. I’m not a great swimmer and surfing requires at least a little water skill. Also I’ve never been coordinated so it didn’t seem like a good idea.
I did try windsurfing in Hawaii once. Even though it’s true I’m not grace personified, I thought with the sail to hang to and surfing in a protected bay I would be okay. Getting onto the board was the first challenge. Grabbing and gliding the sail was the next one. I felt like all of the Three Stooges on that board. When I finally got it all together, I sailed a short way before I hit the shore. Of course the “windward and mauka,” shower hit about then. Hawaii, especially in the summer, has a soft afternoon shower that hits and then dissipates. By then I had had enough.
But it’s good to be a writer because I can imagine what it must be like to surf. Even now, twenty years later, I still feel the Kailua sun on my face; feel the windward breezes playing with my hair. Clear blue water lapping around my legs as I climb onto my board. I can feel my stomach tightening as I search for the perfect wave. Here it is. I just need to grab it. The water is roaring around me and bumping my board. Fingers wet as they touch edge of the wave. Triumph overwhelms me as I ride the curl close to the shore. I have ridden the perfect wave only in my mind but somehow it does seem real.